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  1. #1
    Administrator shaffer's Avatar
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    Dec 2014
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    Current Conditions in Lworth for Climbing

    Hi All,

    We at WenOut received this email from Charlie Hickenbottom about the latest climbing beta for weather conditions in Leavenworth and new routes. Here is the update!

    Hobo Gulch, Tumwater Canyon near Leavenworth - All but one of the routes on the lower right side are dry enough to climb. Hobonero Sauce (5.10c, not in Kramer’s guidebook) still has a major drip across the crux section midway up the route. About half of the routes on the upper left wall are in shape to climb. These south facing walls tend to be good in the spring and fall, warming up by mid-morning and staying in the sun until late afternoon.

    Underhill, lower Icicle Canyon - Marc Dilley and I had a recent invitation to meet Viktor Kramar (Leavenworth Rock, <http://leavenworthrockclimbing.com>), at a location where he and his friends have finished putting up five new routes. All are on granite, have modern sport anchors, and all but one protect using both cracks and bolts. With Viktor’s blessing, I will recount what’s available without having route names. I’ll also throw in an endorsement to support Kramar’s work by investing in his guidebook. Route 1 is just right of an old classic, "Ski Hill Tracks." A slabby 5.7 pitch is followed by a steep corner rated 5.10d. It’s possible to rap or lower from the top of the first pitch. #2 begins a bit farther up the trail leading towards the Sam Hill area. This pitch has a steep 5.8 crux not far above ground level and has a right facing corner near the top. #3 is a 5.7 slab pitch which begins at the junction where the trail to Sam Hill goes up left and the trail to the main Underhill crag goes right. #4 begins perhaps 50 yards up the Sam Hill trail from this junction. This route is all bolt protected and has a height-dependent crux at about 5.9-10a. The climb’s base is very close to a seasonal creek that essentially is one and the same as the trail. #5 begins about 50 yards along the Underhill trail from the trail junction. Marc and I visited with Victor at the base and were honored to get the second ascent as his group had just finished the route and were leaving. This pitch has a slab beginning, then an upper wall characterized by a strenuous undercling traverse at 5.8-5.9. All of these routes are on high quality rock and deserve a few stars compared to other routes in Kramar’s book. Numbers 1-4 have morning to mid-day sun and late afternoon shade. Number 5 is more south facing. Numbers 1-4 will work well to complement nearby Trundle Dome for an after-work session when the weather is hot and shade is essential.

  2. #2
    Administrator shaffer's Avatar
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    Dec 2014
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    Howdy Climbers!

    Here is the latest chatter from Charlie Hickenbottom about where he and Marc Dilley have been climbing and what routes they have been getting on.

    "Wednesday of this week found me heading to the Icicle with Mark Dilley. He had some unfinished business at Buena Vista Buttress, where he had backed off a route the previous weekend. It gave me a chance to see the new trail used to access Little Bridge Creek Rock, using beta offered up by Leavenworth Rock author, Viktor Kramar. We used the map on page 208 from Kramar's book, noting that the new trail heads more straight up the hillside towards Little Bridge Creek Rock. A small cairn marks the start of this trail, a short distance west of the nearby driveway to a residence.

    Marc guided me on my first tour of the crags above Little Bridge Creek Rock. We used the main trail which passes by the Geode and reaches a flat where T-Rex is off the left and Dusel Dome and Crowbar Crag are higher up. Here a trail not marked on Kramer's map heads right to pass by a wall not in the guide that has a few routes. Too shaded at that point for comfort, we continued along to pass by the top of Buena Vista Buttress. By circling clockwise and descending we reached the start of the climbs on the right side of this wall. Three high quality climbs (9 to 10b) are here. Marc retrieved his bail biner and completed Sins of the Fathers.

    With time constraints, we chose to leave Minerva Crag for another day. A rough trail marked on Kramer's map passes under the left side of Buena Vista Buttress, then drops and traverses over to Little Rascals. Here we climbed Rather Wheezy (10b), which shares anchors with Little Grunty (11b). These are short, but high quality lines. From here we continued our clockwise loop by descending under another wall (not in Kramer's guide, 10a and 11a climbs) and back to the main trail.

    In closing, there is a bunch of quality climbing on the aforementioned loop. You could spend a day here or a bunch of days sampling the various offerings. Most of the crags face south. Spring and fall are generally the best seasons.
    "

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